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During this season of overflowing baked goods there is an important extra reason to prevent our opportunistic indoor doggies from snatching those “off-limit” treats.

Xylitol is a sugar replacement that has been used in cooking since the 1940’s. However, the frequency of use as sweeteners in toothpastes, gums, desserts, and sugar free baked goods has been increasing dramatically. The reported adverse reports in dogs to the product have been increasing as well: from 20 in 2003 to over 138 already in 2006. In contrast to humans, xylitol is a potent stimulator of insulin in dogs—the hormone responsible for sugar absorption. This can result in a profound and dangerous decrease in our canine companion’s blood sugar, within 30 minutes of ingestion. This results in extreme lethargy, seizures and even death. This is a dose dependent response, in other words the more they eat, the more severe the side effects. In general, dogs that ingest approaching 0.045g/lb body weight should be treated immediately by a veterinarian.

There are also reports of severe liver disease in dogs as a direct result of ingesting the product. The etiology behind the liver disease is not fully understood, although delaying treatment, even in dogs with no clinical signs may increase the risk of liver disease.

So, another good incentive to halt the table scraps. Please call or e-mail us if you would like to know more about xylitol ingestion in dogs.

Again, if your dog ingests xylitol containing products, note the approximate quantity ingested and the specific product name/packaging with you to immediately consult with us. We are reachable 24 hours a day by phone 360-757-3722.

Thank you,

Dr. Jake Searle
Chuckanut Valley Veterinary Clinic


References:
1. Dunayer E, Gwaltney-Brant S. Acute hepatic failure and coagulopathy associated with xylitol ingestion in eight dogs. Journal of American Veterinary Medical Association 2006; 229:1113-1121.





2004 People's Choice Award for "Best Veterinary Clinic"

VETERINARY WINNER FINDS ITSELF
FACING MANY CHANGES IN INDUSTRY


BY MICHAEL KARKABÉ-OLSON
STAFFWRITER

BURLINGTON — The 2004 People’s Choice award for “Best Veterinary Clinic” goes to the Chuckanut Valley Veterinary Clinic in Burlington.

In its early years, the majority of Chuckanut Valley Veterinary’s business came from farm animals, not pets, said Greg Ingman, who established the business in 1987 and is now one of its three owners.

Since then the county has become more urban and the population has grown. As a result the clinic became centered more of household pets, Ingman said.

Today’s customers also seem to treat their pets, on the whole, more like members of the family, he
said. This, in turn, has resulted in customers demanding more advanced procedures and the use
advanced medical equipment, such as chemotherapy, ultrasounds, endoscopy and joint replacements.

In all, they visit about 30 to 40 farms a month to
treat horses and cows, and they see about 600 smaller animals a month at their office. They’ve treated just about every kind of animal, Ingman added, from birds and mammals to reptiles and tarantulas. Mostly, though, they find themselves working with dogs, cats, horses and cows.

The business’s other two owners are veterinarians Peter Brown, who joined in 1991, and Jake Searle, who arrived in 2000. Together, they head a staff of 18, including all owners, veterinarians and office workers.

Previously located on Pulver Road, the business has been at its current location on Burlington Boulevard for seven years.

Brown said the most difficult aspect of being a veterinarian is the time commitment involved and balancing calls with family life.


Ingman agreed, but he said it is also hard when families who have an ailing animal they obviously love a lot find they just doesn’t have the resources to pay for the operation.

“It can be gut-wrenching,” he said. He added it can be equally tough to see someone bring in a neglected animal.

“It really bothers me,” he said. “It makes you feel angry and sad. It doesn’t happen often, but, hen it does, it gets you.”

Another difficulty is keeping up with advances in technology. “Every five years the knowledge base turns over,” Brown said. “We’re always stimulated and continuing our education. But that’s what I like about it.”

Recently they upgraded the company computer system so they can keep better track of records. They also upgraded their ultrasound technology and have begun to look into adding digital X-ray technology. They also plan to expand more into offering training courses and behavior modification for pets.

“We’re growing rapidly and the job is continually changing,” Ingman said. “And that is what is fun about it.”

-Skagit County Business Pulse, February 2005


Summertime is here……

During the hot days of summer, we need to be especially careful with our pets. We can often make the decision to move to the shade or avoid activities in the middle of the day. Our pets rely on us, to make sure they are staying cool. If we do not watch our pets closely enough, leave them in confined places, or have them exercise during hot weather we are pointing them at risk for heat stroke. Heat stroke is a very serious medical emergency and may kill or seriously injure your pet.

What is heat stroke?
Heat stroke is characterized by a marked elevation in body temperature following prolonged exposure to elevated ambient temperature. Heat stroke can occur when an animal is exercised on a hot day and the normal mechanisms of heat dissipation cannot keep up with heat being produced by muscle activity (exertional heat stroke). Heat stroke can also occur when an animal is confined to a hot enclosed space or chained outdoors on a hot day without shade (non-exertional heat stroke). In either situation the body temperature is above the ideal set point because it has exhausted its ability to dissipate heat effectively.

How will I know if my pet is suffering from heat stroke?
Signs of heat stroke are intense, rapid panting, wide eyes, salivating, staggering and weakness. Advanced heat stroke victims will collapse and become unconscious. The gums will appear pale and dry. If you return to your car or the area in which the animal was confined and find your pet seems highly agitated, wide-eyed and panting uncontrollably… start for the nearest animal hospital right away.

Are all pets equally as likely to develop heat stroke?
Short faced (brachycephalic) breeds such as Boxers, Pekingenese, Pugs and dogs with heavy or dark coats are at greater risk for heat stroke than other breeds. Also age, heart trouble and physical conditions such as being overweight can all contribute to a lesser efficiency in dissipating heat build up in the body. Other pets, including cats and horses can also develop heat stroke as well.

What are the possible medical problems associated with heat stroke?
The effects of heat stroke are multisystemic and are directly attributable to cellular injury. When the body temperature approaches between 105-108 degrees Fahrenheit normal cellular activity is altered. With cellular alteration there is disruption in blood flow and clotting. Subsequently there can be damage to the gastrointestinal tract, heart, brain, liver, kidney, and lungs. The full extent of cellular damage may not be evident for 2-3 days post event. Beyond the initial lowering of the patient’s body temperature, and fluid support, your animal will require aggressive treatment and monitoring for several days.

How can you avoid heat stroke?
Luckily heat stroke can be easily avoided! By being prepared and planning ahead, you can insure that you animal remains cool and healthy. These are several steps that will help:

  • Never leave pets in cars on warm days.
  • Exercise during the cool part of the day and always build your animals time exercising up gradually.
  • If your pet is outside, make sure they have access to shade and fresh cool water.
  • And lastly, when traveling be aware of weather conditions, and possibly travel during the cooler hours of the day. If traveling when it is warm, bring plenty of water and towels that you can moisten to cool your pet down with. Planning several breaks along the way can help both you and your pet.

Before taking your dog on your next trip, consider his/her ITB risk.


Exposure to infectious respiratory diseases like tracheobronchitis (ITB) could be just around the next corner. The following activities with your dog may put him/her at risk:

  • Playing with your dog in dog parks
  • Participating in puppy/dog training or obedience classes
  • Meeting other dogs at a pet store, resort or doggy daycare
  • Exposure to other dogs when staying with friends and family
  • Moving to a new home
  • Boarding or grooming
  • Stopping at highway rest areas

Be sure and ask one of our veterinarians to examine your dog to make sure he/she is in good health. It is especially important that your dog is protected from ITB. Contact with other dogs carrying this highly contagious disease-causing bacteria puts your pet at risk.

Be sure and travel safely by protecting your pet early.


Going on Vacation? What about your pets?

If you’re a pet owner planning vacation, the decision to take your pet along or leave them behind is an important one for both you and your companion. Talking to your veterinarian may make this decision easier. Specifically you’ll need to familiarize yourself with any pet-related restrictions or requirements imposed by airlines, destination countries or states, hotels, etc.

A few general tips apply whether you travel by car or plane. Be sure your pet is properly identified with a current tag or a microchip. In addition to a standard identification tag (which should be labeled with your name, home address and telephone number), your pets collar should include a travel tag with information on where you are staying while away from home. Should your pet become lost, this will allow you to be contacted locally. Grooming (bathing, combing, trimming nails) before a trip, plus having its favorite food, toy(s) and dishes available will make your pet more comfortable. Have both proof of rabies vaccination and a current health certificate with you when crossing state or international borders.

Air travel is of most concern to pet owners. You can minimize the chances of an unpleasant experience by following a few guidelines. Federal regulations require that pets be at least 8 week old and weaned at least 5 days before flying. Generally, a health certificate (which is not more than 10 days old) must be available before pets will be permitted to fly. A valid rabies vaccination certificate will also be required. Contact the airline well in advance for specific regulations and to secure your pets reservation. Try to book a nonstop, midweek flight and avoid plane changes if possible. During warm weather periods choose early morning or late evening flights. In colder months, choose midday flights.

While it may be tempting to take your furry friend with you, keep in mind that some animals are not suited for travel because of temperament, illness, or physical impairment. Thus, if you or your veterinarian decides that your pet should not travel, consider the alternatives: Have a responsible friend or relative look after your pet, board your animal at a kennel, or hire a pet sitter. If you arrange for someone to care for your pet while you are away, provide the caretaker with the telephone number where you can be reached, the name and telephone number of your veterinarian, and your pets medical or dietary needs. You should also make sure that your pet is comfortable with the person, or kennel you have chosen.


Pet Dental Care

“Eighty-five percent of all dogs and cats over one year old have some degree of
Periodontal disease, but only 3% of dogs and 1% of cats get treatment.”

That statistic, from the 2003 American Animal Hospital Compliance Study, is very sobering, but not at all shocking to those of us in the veterinary field. We see pets every day that need their teeth addressed in one way or another.

Dental health in pets is much different than in humans. The veterinary field as a whole has made progress in dental health by leaps and bounds, but only within the past 10-15 years. Part of our hindrance is due to the fact it’s hard to tell when our pets’ mouths hurt. When I get a toothache, it’s annoying, but I can still go to work and get through my day. It doesn’t stop me completely.

There are some things you can look for in your pet that would indicate that they are having trouble with their teeth. Things like:

  • Dropping food when eating
  • Increased salivation (drooling)
  • Increased licking of mouth and lips
  • Halitosis (bad breath)
  • Crankiness
  • Swelling around the nose or beneath the eyes
  • Discharge from the nose
  • Tartar - brown/yellow discoloration of teeth
  • Gingivitis - reddening of gums right next to the teeth

Another thing that differentiates human dental care and pet dental care is patient compliance. We cannot ask our pets to stay still while we clean and polish their teeth. So, for pets we have to put them under general anesthesia. Lucky, aren’t they? We have a fantastic set up here, if I do say so myself. Pets arrive in the morning; they get a very comfy cage and are given something to help them relax. We draw blood to test kidney and liver function. Once everything checks out, they are put under general anesthesia. A technician, like me, actually cleans the teeth. We use an ultrasonic scaler and remove all the tartar and staining. We check for pockets or gaps between the tooth and the gum line, that would indicate disease, and for any loose, broken or dead teeth. At this time the doctor comes and performs an oral exam and makes any extractions, if necessary. When the doctor is finished the technician polishes the teeth with bubble gum flavored (I’m not sure why) fluoride paste. When we are finished we wake up the patient and call you (the owner). Sounds a lot like your last trip to the dentist, doesn’t it?

Bad teeth do cause more problems than just a sore mouth. When tartar is present, bacteria are able to get up underneath the gum line not only causing infection, but getting into the blood stream. Once the bacteria enter the blood stream, they go to the kidney, liver, and even the heart, causing internal damage.

So, what can you do to help prevent dental disease? Well, the damage has already happened. Once tartar and calculus are present on the teeth, you cannot brush them off. A professional cleaning is the only way to remove the tartar and help stop the disease process.

I’ve written a lot about dogs and cats. I’ve asked Emily Axelson to write something about equine dental health following.

Your horse’s teeth are one of the most overlooked areas of equine health. Poor tooth condition can cause numerous issues in horses, from general poor condition to serious infections. What makes the equine tooth different from most is that it never quits growing throughout a horse’s lifetime. In the wild horses of days gone by, this was a well designed necessity as the average horse then, survived on a diet much different than the average horse of today.

Wild horses eat a diverse mixture of tough grasses, shrubs, bushes, and even trees which consistently wear the ever growing tooth away to an even and natural grinding surface. While on the other hand our domestic horses of today tend to be fed a mix of some grass pasture, highly palatable soft hays or alfalfa, and grains or pellets. So as you can imagine this diet will not keep a horse’s teeth ground down to a natural level.

It is highly recommended that you have your horse’s mouth examined by a qualified veterinarian at least once yearly. This is a great time to combine an annual health check and routine vaccines. Most horses will need to be sedated for the dental floating (filing down of the sharp hooks and edges on the surface of the tooth) so this is also a great time to do any other procedures that would require sedation.

If left unchecked a horse with teeth that are overgrown can have many different problems or a combination of issues. Here is a brief list of possibilities:

  • Poor body condition due to improperly chewed forage which cannot be digested as it should be.
  • Mouth pain including the gums, cheeks and tongue caused by sharp hooks and edges.
  • Infection of mouth and sinuses.
  • Resistance to bridling and carrying a bit.
  • Head tossing or tilting.
  • Reluctance to eat.

There are a number of things that will alert you to signs of tooth problems, dropping grain when chewing, weight loss, bad smell of breath and many seemingly behavioral issues. Pleases don’t wait to see if any of these signs are present, you will do yourself and your equine companion a big favor by getting on a maintenance plan first!

Kat Priebe L.V.T.
-With the much appreciated horse knowledge of Emily Axelson.


Brushing - How many of you brush your pets' teeth?

Believe it or not, it's on the rise. More and more people are brushing their pets' teeth. Brushing is the best prevention against tartar and periodontal disease. And it's a lot easier than you may think.

First and foremost you will need a toothbrush. Any soft bristled brush will do, however there are special dog brushes that have two heads, one smaller and one larger. Also available are ones with longer handles to reach in the very back for larger dogs. There is also a brush for cats that has a very small circular head.

Next step is purchasing pet toothpaste. You will need toothpaste that does not contain fluoride like humans since pets will swallow their toothpaste. Pets do not commonly get caries (or cavities) since their diet does not usually contain high amounts of sugar. Pet toothpaste also comes in different flavors. The most popular flavor is poultry; however they also sell beef, seafood, malt and vanilla mint flavors. At Chuckanut Valley Veterinary Clinic, we have pet dental kits available which include a long handled toothbrush, a finger brush, and a tube of toothpaste. These are great for beginners.Now you are ready to begin brushing. To get your pet used to the process, start by placing some in their mouth or have them lick the toothpaste off your finger a few times so they can get used to the taste. Remember to reward them after with treats and/or praise. Continue this process until they are comfortable. Now you can begin brushing. The rubber finger brush contained in the dental kit fits on your finger like a thimble and has very soft bristles. This is another excellent introduction to the toothbrush or as mentioned above, any soft bristled brush will work. If your pet is having a hard time getting used to the toothbrush, go slowly and start with brushing the right back side, then reward. Slowly you can move up to the entire right side, and then to the whole mouth.

Note, you only have to brush the OUTSIDES of their teeth and you do not need to get your pet to open their mouth. Brush around the outsides of the teeth including the gums. Your job is to concentrate your efforts mainly on the back teeth (molars), where a majority of tartar builds up. Don't forget to reward!

Once your pet gets accustomed to having their teeth brushed, the whole task will probably take about 30 seconds. That's one T.V. commercial. How often do you have to miss your favorite commercial? Ideally you should brush your pets' teeth everyday. It takes 3 to 4 days for plaque to harden into tartar that you cannot brush off so brushing from every other to every third day will suffice.

By brushing your pets' teeth you will not only extend their life in years, but their quality of life as well. You will also save money by decreasing the frequency that your pet will need a professional dental cleaning.

As always, I am here to answer questions. Feel free in contacting me at (360)757-3722 or you may email me at info@chuckanutvet.com with “attn. Kat” as the subject.

Thank you! Kat Priebe, L.V.T.